Keeper Of The Mountains Read online

  1973 Italian Everest expedition 110

  80th birthday party 201

  altitude ceiling 135

  death of wife Louise and daughter Belinda 115

  high commissioner to India and Nepal 115

  Himalayan Trust 103

  honorary Nepalese citizenship 226

  on Elizabeth’s character 15

  on Elizabeth’s friendships in Kathmandu 104

  Hillary Foundation 164

  Himalayan Trust 19, 103, 124, 129, 130, 170, 232, 235

  Himalayan Trust Sherpas 227

  Hinkes, Alan 190, 191, 196, 201

  Hoey, Marty 137

  Hornbein, Tom 84, 85

  Horseshoe Traverse 192, 234

  Hotel Gaurishankar 206

  Houston, Dr. Charles 15, 27, 129, 232

  Houston, Robin 27, 28, 225

  Humar, Tomaž 195, 212, 225, 233

  Hunt, Sir John 81, 90, 232

  Iñurrategi, Alberto 223, 234

  Iraq 63

  Irvine, Andrew 207

  Israel 61

  Istanbul, Turkey 57

  Jangbu, Nuru 29

  Jannu 212

  1989 Slovenian ascent 167

  Jeglič, Janez 194

  Jerstad, Lute 84, 85

  Johnston, Mary 47

  Jones, Finn-Olaf 215

  K2 187, 188

  Kali Gandaki Valley 99

  Kammerlander, Hans 138, 139, 224

  Kangchenjunga 138, 183, 187, 189, 190, 192, 234

  1979 new route 122

  1982 Messner ascent 135

  1989 Soviet ascents 167

  Kangtega 215

  Karachi, Pakistan 63

  Kathmandu, Nepal 65

  in 1960 73

  Kennedy, President John F. 85

  Khartoum, Sudan 50

  Khatri, Major General Padma Bahadur 84

  Khrushchev, Nikita 53

  Khumbu 94, 130, 135

  Khumbu Icefall 109, 217

  Khumjung, Nepal 103

  King, Elaine 98

  King Birendra of Nepal 108, 112, 119, 216

  King Gyanendra of Nepal 221, 222, 226

  King Mahendra of Nepal 66, 67, 68, 74, 76, 82, 83, 88, 107

  1960 political reorganization 77

  King Tribhuvan of Nepal 66, 67, 74

  Kissinger, Henry 94

  Klatzel, Frances 238

  friendship with Elizabeth 131

  Klein, Herb 92

  Kneerim, Lee (cousin) 47, 169

  Kneerim, Will (cousin’s son) 73

  Knickerbocker Foundation 70, 75

  Koestler, Arthur 63

  Koirala, B.P., Nepalese prime minister 75, 76, 96, 118, 119, 136

  Kopczynski, Chris 126

  Krishna Loaf 73

  Kukuczka, Jerzy 126, 128, 138, 139, 140, 168

  Kumar 72, 73, 113

  Kunde 130

  Kurtyka, Voytek 140

  Kusum Kanguru 182

  Kuwait 63

  Lafaille, Jean-Christophe 185, 187, 215, 224, 234

  Lawrence, T.E. 63

  l’Esprit d’équipe 189

  Lhamu Sherpa, Pasang 186

  Lhasa, Tibet 180

  Lhotse 111, 125, 126, 128, 139, 195, 199, 218

  1974 Polish winter expedition 111

  1989 Kukuczka tragedy 168

  1990 South Face 177

  Lissanevitch, Boris 74, 80, 104

  Łódź 52

  Loretan, Erhard 139, 190, 191, 232

  Lowe, George 239

  Lowe, Mary 239

  Ma’an, Jordan 62

  Macdonald, Heather 44, 82, 206, 208, 240, 241

  on Elizabeth’s character 14, 44

  on Elizabeth speaking Nepali 82

  MacInnes, Hamish 108

  Makalu 81, 126, 135, 139, 191, 234

  1980 American West Pillar route 126

  1995 summit by Viesturs, Hall and Gustafsson 188

  Mallory (Lhasa apso) 142

  Mallory, George 208

  Manaslu 127, 128, 168, 198, 199, 215, 219

  1981 French ascent 134

  Martinez, Jesús and José Antonio 195

  Martini, Sergio 180, 190, 191, 195, 196

  Matlak, Krawetz 174

  Matsumoto, Norichika 203

  Mauduit, Chantal 124, 199

  Mazeaud, Pierre 105

  McDonald, Caroline 232

  McDougal, Chuck 92

  Menlungtse

  1992 Slovenian Southeast Face route 185

  Messner, Günther 139

  Messner, Reinhold 120, 121, 124, 126, 128, 135, 138, 139, 140, 162, 211, 227, 236

  friendship with Elizabeth 128

  on Elizabeth’s character 15

  Miura, Yuichiro 104

  momo 132

  Monzino, Guido 109

  Moores, Thomas 218

  Moran, Father 79

  Moro, Simone 202, 218

  Morocco 50

  Moscow, USSR 54

  Moses Mountain, Sinai 59

  Mother Theresa 133

  Mountain Madness 196

  Mountain Travel 90, 91, 93, 99, 123, 134, 135

  Mount Fuji 192

  Mulgrew, Peter 124

  Namche Bazaar, Nepal 222, 228

  Nanga Parbat 139, 196

  Nasser, Gamal Abdel, Egyptian president 57, 62

  Nehru, Pandit 67

  Nepal

  1977-80 political unrest 119

  1980 referendum and aftermath 120

  1985 political unrest 141

  2000 rise in crime 219

  2001 terrorism 223

  2003 Maoist insurrection 230

  2003 massacre at Beni Bazaar 229

  commerical and guided climbing 194

  development in 1967 95

  early days of mountaineering 81

  fall of Rana rule 67

  first election in 68

  impact of conflict between India and Pakistan on 107

  Rana rule in 66

  re-establishment of prime minister and Parliament 96

  relations with Chinese-occupied Tibet 89

  Nepali Times 230

  Nepal Ministry of Tourism

  1996 peak fees 193

  1996 permits for Everest 198

  climbing permits 179, 220

  commercial and guided climbing 180

  Nepal Mountaineering Association 181

  Norgay, Tenzing 27, 102, 186, 201, 207

  Noshaq 125

  Nowak, Jim 214

  Nuptse 194, 224, 233

  1997 West Face ascent by Humar and Jeglič 195

  Odell, Noel 207

  O’Dowd, Cathy 197, 227, 234

  Oiarzabal, Juanito 189, 195, 196

  Palace of Culture, Warsaw, Poland 52

  panchayat system 119

  Paroli, Tony 172, 173

  Pasaban, Edurne 222

  Pashipatinath 136

  Patan, Nepal 71

  Patscheider, Reinhard 163

  Petra, Jordan 62

  Phaphlu, Nepal 113, 114

  Philby, John 57

  Philby, Kim 57

  Phillip, Duke of Edinburgh 80

  Pokhara, Nepal 110

  Poland 53

  Prague, Czechoslovakia 54

  Prezelj, Marko 185

  Prince Basundhara of Nepal 74, 78, 86, 103, 107, 112

  Prince Charles of England 112, 134

  Profit, Christophe 218

  Pumori 214

  Queen Mother Ratna of Nepal 221

  Rackl, Robert 216

  Ram Krishna (cook) 72

  Rana, General Mrigendra Shumsher Jung Bahadur 78, 86

  Read, Al 99, 123, 135

  Redford, Robert 93

  Reichardt, Lou 110, 134

  Reuters 70, 82, 84, 136, 141, 144, 220, 231

  Rita, Ang 24, 131, 170, 210, 235

  Roberts, Colonel Jimmy 84, 90, 91, 93, 99, 105, 108, 134

  Rockefeller, Nelson 69

  Rombauer, Irma (cousin) 47

  Roskelley, Jess
229

  Roskelley, John 110, 123, 126, 134, 135, 185, 229

  Rovaniemi, Finland 49

  Royal Hotel 74, 103

  Royer, Bernard 190

  Rüedi, Marcel 139

  Rum Doodle 209

  Rutkiewicz, Wanda 124, 184, 232

  Sagarmatha National Park 130

  Said, Nuri. See al-Said, Nuri, Iraq premier

  Salinger, Pierre 85

  Salisbury, Richard 182, 183, 235

  Salkeld, Audrey 209

  Samden, Nawang 110

  Sayre, Woodrow Wilson 83

  Schmatz, Gerhard 123

  Schmatz, Hannelore 124

  Schwartz, Eleanor 14, 47

  Scott, Doug 16, 108, 116, 122

  Seti, Nepal 219

  Shah, General Surendra Bahadur 84

  Shah, Prithvi Narayan 108

  Shaha, Rishikesh 86, 96

  Shand, Peter 113

  Sharma, Gopal 141, 142, 171

  Sher Bahadur Deuba, Nepalese prime minister 230

  Sherpa, Apa 210

  Sherpa, Dorje 123

  Sherpa, Kaji 203

  Sherpa, Lhakpa Gelu 20

  Sherpa, Pertemba 91, 116, 117, 123, 134

  Sherpa, Sungdare 210

  Sherpa Center 215

  Sherpas 76, 94, 95, 115, 116, 121, 122, 131, 186, 211, 233

  Shipton, Eric 91

  Shishapangma 186, 187, 188, 189

  Shringi Himal 219

  Shringi River 219

  Side, Turkey 60

  Siffredi, Marco 216

  Simonson, Eric 207, 208

  Sindhu (Lhasa apso) 83, 96, 97, 111, 112

  Škarja, Tone 122

  Slosson, Professor Preston 37, 42

  Snow in the Kingdom 161

  Soaltee Hotel 103

  Sobolev, Dmitri 202

  Sokwitne, Harold 41

  Solukhumbu, Nepal 223, 240

  Šrauf, Stane Belak. See Belak-Šrauf, Stane

  Stark, Freya 56, 104

  St. Catherine’s Monastery, Sinai 59

  St. Catherine’s Mountain, Sinai 59

  Štremfelj, Andrej 122, 185, 211, 212

  Štremfelj, Andrej and Marija 178

  Štremfelj, Marko 122

  Suben 23

  Sudan 51

  Suviga, Vladimir 225

  Tabei, Junko 115, 116, 192

  Taksindu, Nepal 216

  Tashigaon, Nepal 222

  Tasker, Joe 122, 137

  Teare, Paul 161, 162

  Tehran, Iran 63

  Tenzing, Tashi 28, 202

  Terai, Nepal 92

  Terray, Lionel 218

  Terray, Nicolas 218

  Thamserku (trekking agency) 185

  Thapa, Nepalese prime minister 230

  The Climb 197

  The Himalayan Database 235

  The Man Who Skied Down Everest 104

  Tibet 144

  Tiger Mountain 93

  Tiger Tops 25, 92, 93, 95, 98

  Tigger (Lhasa apso) 96, 97, 111

  Tigger II (Lhasa apso) 112, 142

  Tighe, Tony 109

  Time Inc. 77

  Tito, Marshal 48

  Todd, Henry 215

  Troillet, Jean 140, 190

  Tshering, Ang 199

  Tshering, Babu (Ang Babu) 210

  Tshering, Sonam 186

  Tukche, Nepal 110

  U.S. Information Agency (USIA, USIS) 69

  Uemura, Naomi 128

  Ulan Bator, Mongolia 132, 133

  United Nations Relief and Works Agency (UNRWA) 57

  Unsoeld, Willi 84, 85, 86

  Venables, Stephen 161, 162, 182

  Vertical 176

  Vienna, Austria 54

  Viesturs, Ed 16, 27, 188

  Vilna (Vilnius), Poland (Lithuania) 52

  Vos, Bart 200

  Wadi Rum desert, Jordan 62

  Walmsley, Joseph 81

  Washburn, Brad 232

  Weatherall, Micky 77, 83, 86

  Webster, Ed 161

  Weihenmayer, Erik 228

  Whillans, Don 16, 89, 104, 108

  Whittaker, Jim 84

  Whittaker, Lou 136

  Wickwire, Jim 185

  Wielicki, Krzysztof 125, 138, 191

  Wignall, Sidney 89

  Woodall, Ian 197, 227

  Wynne, Jr., Toddy 92

  Wyszyński, Cardinal 52

  Yadav, Santosh 234

  Yak and Yeti Hotel 103, 232

  Young-Seok, Park 195

  Yugoslavia 48

  Zawada, Andrzej 111, 125, 126

  Copyright © 2012 Bernadette McDonald

  All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise—without the prior written consent of the publisher or a licence from The Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency (ACCESS Copyright). For a copyright licence, visit www.accesscopyright.ca.

  Distribution of this electronic edition via the Internet or any other means without the permission of the publisher is illegal. Please do not participate in electronic piracy of copyrighted material; purchase only authorized electronic editions. We appreciate your support of the author’s rights.

  Cataloguing data available from Library and Archives Canada

  Published by RMB in paperback in 2012

  ISBN 978-1-927330-15-9

  This electronic version published in 2012

  EPUB ISBN 978-1-927330-16-6

  Cover: Sunset on Mt Everest high altitude Himalaya mountains Khumbu Nepal © fotoVoyager, old palace © Mehmet Salih Guler, Portrait of Elizabeth as a young woman Courtesy of the Michael and Meg Leonard collection

  Rocky Mountain Books acknowledges the financial support for its publishing program from the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund (CBF) and the Canada Council for the Arts, and from the province of British Columbia through the British Columbia Arts Council and the Book Publishing Tax Credit.

  Rocky Mountain Books

  www.rmbooks.com